Zero Stop Turrets Explained: Do You Really Need One?

If you have ever dialled elevation for a long shot, fired, and then tried to return your turret to its original zero — only to lose count of the revolutions and end up hopelessly off — you already understand the problem a zero stop solves. A zero stop turret is a mechanical hard stop built into the elevation (and sometimes windage) turret that prevents you from dialling below your chosen zero point. Once set, you can wind the turret back down with confidence, knowing that the moment it stops turning you are back at your confirmed zero. It is a deceptively simple feature, but one that removes a genuine source of error in the field.

The concept matters most on scopes with a large amount of internal elevation travel — typically those designed for long-range centrefire shooting where you might be dialling several milliradians or many MOA of come-up. On a scope with, say, 25 MRAD of total elevation travel spread across multiple turret revolutions, it is remarkably easy to land on the right number but the wrong revolution. A zero stop eliminates that risk entirely. It is worth noting that on a first focal plane (FFP) scope — where the reticle scales correctly at every magnification — you could also use reticle holdovers instead of dialling, but many UK shooters prefer to dial for precision, and a zero stop makes that workflow far more reliable.

So, is it essential for every shooter? Not necessarily. If you shoot a sub-12 ft/lb air rifle at sensible ranges of 50 yards or less, or a rimfire at modest distances, a zero stop is a luxury rather than a necessity because you are unlikely to be dialling large elevation corrections. But for UK deer stalkers taking varied-distance shots, and especially for target or practical rifle shooters engaging steel at 600 yards and beyond, it is one of those features that quietly pays for itself every time you return to zero under pressure.

Buying Advice

When evaluating zero stop turrets, the first thing to check is the mechanism type. The most common designs use either a locking ring beneath the turret cap or an internal clutch system. Locking-ring designs — found on many mid-range and premium scopes — let you loosen the ring, set your confirmed zero, and then re-tighten so the turret physically cannot rotate past that point. Clutch-based systems achieve the same result but may allow the turret to slip once it hits the stop, rather than presenting a hard mechanical limit. Both work, but a true hard stop is generally preferred because you get unambiguous tactile feedback. Pay attention to whether the zero stop is user-settable or factory-fixed; you want the former, since your zero will change if you swap ammunition, re-zero at a different range, or adjust for a suppressor shift.

Consider how the zero stop interacts with the scope's total elevation travel. Setting a zero stop effectively caps the usable adjustment range in one direction, so a scope with generous total travel — 30 MRAD or 100 MOA and above — gives you the most come-up after the stop is set. If you shoot a .308 Win or 6.5 Creedmoor out to 1,000 yards, you might need 10–12 MRAD of come-up from a 100-metre zero, so do the maths before buying. Also check that turret clicks are precise and repeatable; a zero stop is pointless if the tracking itself is poor. Look for scopes with independently verified click values — 0.1 MRAD (which moves point of impact 1 cm at 100 metres) or ¼ MOA (roughly 0.72 cm at 100 metres) — and consistent return-to-zero performance.

Finally, think about your turret style preference. Exposed, tool-less turrets with a zero stop are ideal for dial-and-shoot workflows in practical rifle or long-range target disciplines. Capped turrets with a zero stop underneath offer better protection against accidental adjustment — a genuine concern for UK stalkers pushing through dense cover. Budget-wise, zero stop turrets were once confined to scopes costing well north of £1,000, but several manufacturers now offer them in the £400–£800 bracket with credible tracking and build quality. As always, buy from a UK dealer who can support warranty claims and check that any imported scope carries the correct CE/UKCA marking.