By Peter Makulek · Senior Optics Editor · · Live prices from UK retailers
If your air rifle is grouping low even with the scope's elevation turret wound almost to its limit, you are very likely dealing with barrel droop rather than a faulty scope. It is one of the most common — and most misdiagnosed — problems UK airgunners run into, and the fix rarely involves buying a new scope at all.
Droop happens because the scope rail (dovetail or Picatinny) on many air rifles is machined parallel to the action rather than to the actual axis of the barrel. On break-barrel springers especially, and on a fair number of PCPs, the barrel sits at a very slight downward angle relative to that rail. The result: your scope has to move the point of impact upward to compensate, and on a rifle with a pronounced droop the internal erector assembly can run out of upward travel before it gets there. A common real-world case looks exactly like this: a scope shooting well over 100 mm low at 40 metres with the elevation turret already close to its maximum, on an otherwise perfectly serviceable rifle and scope.
The good news is that droop is a mounting problem, and mounting problems have well-established mounting solutions. Two main routes exist — shimming the existing mount, or fitting a dedicated adjustable or tapered mount — and this guide walks through when each makes sense, what it costs in the UK in 2026, and how to rule out the other causes (fixed parallax, swapped rings, an underpowered rifle) that get mistaken for droop.
As with every guide on this site, the framing here is UK-specific. Sub-12 ft-lb air rifles are legal without a licence for anyone aged 18 or over in England and Wales; Scotland requires an Air Weapon Certificate for any air weapon regardless of power, and Northern Ireland runs its own separate regime. FAC-rated air rifles above 12 ft-lb need a Firearms Certificate. Whichever route you take to fix droop, it does not change your rifle's power or your realistic humane-kill range on rabbit-sized quarry, which for a sub-12 ft-lb springer or PCP remains roughly 35–45 yards.

via BushWear
£29.99

via BushWear
£66.00

via Uttings
£159.00
Before you spend a penny, rule out the other usual suspects. First, check the scope is optically centred: with the rifle secured, wind the elevation turret fully down, count the clicks to fully up, and return it to the middle — this is the scope's optical centre, and it is where the glass performs best and the reticle is most accurate. Diagnosing droop from a scope that was never centred to begin with will send you down the wrong path. Second, check parallax. Some scopes not designed for airgun use have a parallax fixed around 100 metres; at a typical 20–35 yard air rifle zero, that mismatch causes the point of impact to shift with head position in a way that can look exactly like elevation trouble. Third, confirm the front and rear rings were not swapped during fitting, and that both are torqued evenly — an over-tight or crooked ring can itself introduce a few MOA of apparent droop. Finally, chronograph the rifle. A rifle producing noticeably less than its rated power will drop faster than expected and can be mistaken for a mounting fault when the real issue is power.
If you have ruled all of that out and the scope is still maxed on elevation, shimming is the cheapest fix. A thin shim — classically cut from an aluminium drinks can — packed under the rear ring tilts the scope's optical axis down slightly to meet the barrel's actual line, using up far less of the scope's internal elevation travel to reach zero. It works, it costs nothing, and it is fully reversible, but it is fiddly to get even and it does nothing for windage if that is also off.
The tidier fix is a dedicated adjustable or tapered mount, several of which are made specifically for this job by UK manufacturers. Sportsmatch UK, for example, makes a compact one-piece mount (the OP15C) built with roughly 20 MOA of droop compensation aimed squarely at air rifles, priced at around £31, and also makes two-piece dovetail mounts with about 0.75 mm (0.03 in) of vertical taper for the same purpose from around £30 (prices correct as of September 2026). MTC and Venom offer comparable adjustable mounts in the UK market. A taper or adjustable mount corrects droop at the point of contact rather than deep inside the scope's own mechanism, which is the more robust long-term fix if you are not planning to sell the rifle on.
There is a real reason to prefer fixing this at the mount rather than simply living with the scope wound near its limit. A scope's erector assembly — the internal tube that actually moves the reticle — tracks most accurately and repeatably near its own optical centre. Running it close to the edge of its elevation travel for the life of the rifle increases the risk of tracking errors between shots and, on a hard-recoiling spring-piston rifle in particular, raises the risk of the reticle mechanism shifting or even striking the housing under the reverse-recoil impulse springers are known for. A correctly droop-compensated mount lets the scope sit near its optical centre at your actual zero distance, which is where it was designed to perform best.
One thing a droop fix will not do is extend your rifle's effective range. Whatever mount or shim gets you back to a proper zero, a sub-12 ft-lb air rifle remains a 35–45 yard humane-kill tool on rabbit, grey squirrel and similar quarry; an FAC-rated rifle extends that envelope but is still not a substitute for a centrefire at genuine long range. Buy the mount that solves the droop, not the magnification or turret range you do not need at those distances.
Barrel droop is a small downward angle between an air rifle's barrel and the scope rail it is mounted on, common on break-barrel springers and some PCPs because the rail is machined parallel to the action rather than the bore. It forces the scope to compensate by moving the point of impact upward, which can use up more of the scope's internal elevation adjustment than the design ever anticipated.
The classic symptom is the rifle shooting persistently low even with the elevation turret wound close to or at its maximum. Before assuming droop, check that the scope was optically centred to begin with (wind fully down, count clicks to fully up, return to the middle), and rule out fixed-parallax mismatch, swapped rings, or a genuinely underpowered rifle — all three can mimic droop.
A shim (traditionally a strip of aluminium can under the rear ring) is a free, fully reversible fix and is fine for a modest amount of droop. For anything more than a small correction, or if you also need windage adjustment, a purpose-built adjustable or tapered mount from a UK maker such as Sportsmatch or MTC is the tidier, more repeatable long-term fix and typically costs from around £30.
It depends on the individual rifle, but many dedicated air-rifle droop mounts build in around 20 MOA of compensation, which is enough for the majority of springers. If your scope is still maxed out after fitting a 20 MOA mount, you likely have an unusually pronounced droop and may need a combination of an adjustable mount plus a small shim, or a mount offering more compensation.
You will need to re-zero after any mount or shim change, but a correctly fitted droop-compensating mount should not otherwise change your trajectory — it only changes how much of the scope's own internal elevation travel your zero uses up. Once re-zeroed, your holdover marks for other distances remain as accurate as your ballistic app or reticle chart says they should be.
Most UK airgunners fit shims or bolt-on adjustable mounts themselves with basic tools — a torque-limiting screwdriver for the ring screws is worth having. If droop persists after a correctly fitted 20 MOA mount, or you suspect the rail itself is damaged or out of true, that is the point to involve your local gunsmith or RFD rather than stacking shims indefinitely.
Rarely, because droop is a characteristic of the rail-to-barrel geometry rather than a fault in the scope or the rifle individually — both can be working exactly as intended and still combine to produce droop. Some manufacturers will advise on or supply compensating mounts for known-droopy models, so it is worth asking your dealer before buying third-party parts.
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